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Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. May 2013, All If either of these fibers is in your yarn, no matter how worsted and smooth it is spunit will become a fuzzy yarn. But if the pattern calls for yarn from an indie dyer or one of the smaller manufacturers, it can be pretty hit or miss (I just checked for several of my favorites that I've used in designs this year, and nothing). Look at the picture that accompanies this section. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. There are various form of long draw, some make more air filled yarns than others, but the one thing they have in common is that drafting backwards motion, allowing twist to enter the drafting zone. So at my LYS how can I tell from the label on the yarn? March 2018 Woollen vs Worsted - Garthenor Organic You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. (using carded fibers). Looking at a strand, I can start seeing variation. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. Worsted-spun yarns are dense and strong. Required fields are marked *. Woollen and worsted yarn are two types of yarn that can be handspun. This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. An alternative to spinning top worsted is to spin it semi worsted. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. Worsted yarn is best used in outerwear, hats and mittens. Heres a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. Brava! what is it about woolen spun yarns? - Solitude Wool Any suggestions? December 2020 Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. In tropical-weight worsteds, the use of tightly spun, straightened wool combined with a looser weave permits air to flow through the fabric. www.blackeryarns.co.uk, Content: 100% Cormo wool Put-Up: 350 yd [320 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently or machine wash without agitation; dry flat, Elsawool creates both woolen- and worsted-spun yarns, all from the soft wool of purebred Cormo sheep, available in natural undyed colors. The fibers are carded, or brushed, in a single direction and then tightly spun together, resulting in a yarn that is smooth and has a consistent thickness. As for me, well, I love hearing from people who are working on my patterns and do my best to respond to messages quickly. Ill never look at yarn the same way again! One method is not better or worse than the other just different. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). Woolen yarns have variable fiber arrangement In woolen spun yarns the fibers are running in multiple directions, like a cloud. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. Thank you, youre a great explainer. That's how I learned to do yarn substitutions, too, and it was a hard and frustrating process. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. January 2014 PHONE: 1-208-452-4948 Now I know. So the semi-worsted spinning gets you more yardage since the yarn is less . The amount of twist added when making individual plies of yarn is very important and can take the hand and behavior of the yarn in different directions. 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the woo. October 2019 Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. Use top to spin semi worsted. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Last fall when I traveled to the Taos Wool Festival, I discovered a remarkable cormo yarn from Elsa Wool Company. Woolen or worsted? | Jenjoyce Design 140 yards/50 g. $15.50 each. A little history on worsted wool. Woollen yarns are used for flannel, tweed, melton, knitwear and felt. Heres an example of what I mean: in February 2020, I released the Profiterole Hat. 8 and 9 of 51 Yarns: True Woolen and Worsted: Spun Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. This information is just wrong as to pilling. March 2020 It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. Understand that some designers are buried in messages. Semi-woolen yarn is spun woolen-style, using fibers prepared in a parallel arrangement. The terms roping and sliver are often used interchangeably. January 2018 That would be worsted-style shopping. Module 1 Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. Raw, dirty & weedy alpaca is what I'm practicing this woolen technique I am learning, from rolags. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. That doesnt happen when fiber is being compressed and smoothed while it becomes a worsted drafted yarn; that happens when the twist limbos into the fiber. Semi-worsted at a similar wpi got me 83 yds/1.1 oz. I did not know this was the difference in certain types of yarn. September 2022 The compression of a worsted draft puts more individual fibers into a length of yarn, making it heavier. Woolen yarn is dense and is often made from the shorter strands of a sheep's fleece. If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. February 2014 Woolen spinning vs worsted spinning - SlideShare Two different systems are followed in wool processing, the woolen system, and the worsted system. They will drape differently, hold shape differently, feel differently to the hand, and interact differently with the light. Maybe you have moral or ethical concerns about the recommended yarn company, or maybe you just dont like the recommended yarn, or maybe youve got another yarn you really like that youd rather use instead. 3.5 oz ball / yards 245. knitting gauge: 5 stitches / inch on US 7. hand wash cold / lay flat to dry. Usually with terms like All Rights Reserved. So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! Snippets is the Saturday newsletter full of MDK news, specials, and first look at new offerings. The yarn surface is brighter and cleaner. Both types require different fiber preparation on spinning techniques. Rudy Amann was mentored in handspinning by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. I am so excited to have found this article today. Yarns with multiple strands of fiber plied together are very sturdy. What a fascinating series of posts by Ms. Moreno! Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. Brooklyn Tweeds Arbor (Targhee wool, worsted spun) and Shelter (Targhee/Columbia wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples. The woolen yarn fabrics do not hold the crease well and are less durable than worsted yarns. January 2023 The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. When I unplied the yarn and looked at individual strands, I could see a difference and a dead giveaway. Woolen and worsted are two different classifications of wool fabrics and yarn. The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. 20Nm/1 100% Merino Worsted Wool Yarn with Single Anti-shrink for Knitting and Weaving.yarn Patterns: raw white/yarn dyed/top dyed Styles: worsted/woolen Technics: ring spun Use: knitting, weaving Feature: single anti-shrink Evenness: USTER Different twists for weaving and knitting Yarn count: 20Nm/1 Wool top:24 micron Used for sock Color: solid color, suitable for all colors MOQ of sample . Worsted yarn is a smooth and compact yarn that is spun from long staple fibers. December 2015 July 2015 May 2014 Appreciate the info. Thank you! This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. So well illustrated and explained. Thank you for this article. Oh great now Im going to spend all day weeping for Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy and wondering what kind of yarn he was. December 2018 and now the skies are clear, the the clouds have drifted away, and the sun is shining! Voila! But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. Thank you for helping me understand these yarn differencesthis will help me understand why one yarn will make me swoon, and another yarn, totally different, really makes my knees weak. On the other hand, dont feel bad if you just want an easy knit without too much thinking involved. Drop me a line any time. Thank you so much Katie. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. March 2021 A quick aside to address the words we use here. Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of . It makes yarn that is lofty and irregular. August 2016 You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. Manufacturing of Worsted and Woolen Yarns - Textile Sphere The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. Natural fibers will be easier to block than acrylics (which can be killed with steam, but otherwise just are what they are). March 2014 See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. Dyed: United States. Swatching: Get to know Lucky Tweed - Kelbourne Woolens Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. There is a great site called yarnsub which compares most if not all of these elements and suggests alternatives. Wonderful study! When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. Ah, you're right, thank you! Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. God Bless. The worsted process means mixing all short hairs out of fabric. And now for the tricky, but crucial, part of yarn substitution: making sure you hit gauge. Annie. The next step after preparing the fiber is to add twist, as this is key to making yarn twist traps necessary energy and tension into the yarn, increasing strength and, in most cases, elasticity. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. Note: We will specifically explain the commercial woolen- and worsted-spinning methods employed by the mills we work with. The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. The yarn is spun using the woolen process. You'll also want to identify whether the suggested yarn in the pattern is woolen spun or worsted spun. It does not store any personal data. In my spinning past, I've spun from locks, from picked fiber 'clouds' , from bats, had also tried a badly produced rolag or two and gave up ~~ but mostly all the years I've spun its been from roving, sliver, and combed top. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. Getting a yarn thats labeled with the same weight as the previous yarn is only part of the challenge, though. Now, I finally understand what it really means and how it will impact my future knitting! Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. Thanks. Fiber friday: Worsted vs. semi-worsted Porpoise Fur